Asscher Cut
Fancy shapes are less expensive than Rounds. There is one quality which can affect the cost of a Fancy Shape yet never appear on a Certificate and that is "Shape Appeal". You don't need to be a gemologist to know if a Heart Shape has an appealing look to it. The lobes of the Heart may look completely different on one stone than another and yet you wouldn't necessarily be able to determine that from the measurements of the Stones. The best way to judge shape appeal is to look at the stone's girdle outline without a Loupe, and decide if it's attractive to you. Another thing to look for in Fancy Shapes is that the Diamond has a nice length to width ratio.
Length to Width Ratios
| SHAPE |
IMAGE |
DESIRABLE |
TOO
LONG |
TOO
SHORT |
| Length |
Width |
Length |
Length |
| Asscher |
 |
1.00 |
1.00 |
1.05 + |
- 1.00 |
| Cushion |
 |
1.00 |
1.00 |
1.15 + |
- 1.30 |
| Emerald |
 |
1.50
to
1.75 |
1.00 |
2.00 +
(lean) |
- 1.25
(squarish) |
| Heart |
 |
1.00 |
1.00 |
1.25 +
(indented pear) |
- 1.00
(stubby) |
| Marquise |
 |
1.75
to
2.25 |
1.00 |
2.50 +
(sliver) |
- 1.50
(stubby) |
| Oval |
 |
1.33
to
1.66 |
1.00 |
1.75 +
(thin) |
1.25
to
1.10
(fat) |
| Pear |
 |
1.50
to
1.75 |
1.00 |
2.00 +
(gaunt) |
- 1.50
(stubby) |
| Princess |
 |
1.00 |
1.00 |
1.05 + |
- 1.00 |
| Radiant |
 |
1.00 |
1.10 |
1.10 + |
- 1.20 |
The Asscher Cut is a modified version of the Emerald Cut. It is more brilliant, has a smaller table, deeper pavilion and bigger step facets. The Asscher has been around since 1902 but really started to become fashionable after it was featured in Sex and the City.
What to watch out for:
Examine the corners as color is more noticeable in those areas.
Plot Diagram for Asscher Cuts:
This is the plot diagram that labs use to grade asscher cuts:
Notable Asscher Cut Engagement Rings:
Reese Witherspoon: Neil Lane 4.5 Carat Asscher Cut Ring:
Kate Hudson: Neil Lane 5 Carat Asscher Cut in Art Deco Ring:
Kate Beckinsale's Asscher Engagement Ring:
Further Reading:
esscher [sic]
Asscher Setting Question
The beauty of the Asscher Cut
Robb Report article on the Asscher Cut
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DIAMONDS TUTORIAL NAVIGATOR
Preface:
Real Graders Don't Drink Kool-Aid
Lesson 1, The 5Cs:
Carat, Color, Clarity, Cut, Cost
Lesson 2, Shapes:
Round, Asscher, Cushion, Emerald, Heart,
Marquise, Oval, Pear, Princess, Radiant
Lesson 3, Articles:
How to Buy a Diamond, How to Sell Your Jewelry,
How to Read a Diamond Certificate,
The difference between a Certificate & an Appraisal,
What is the SI3?,
World's Largest Polished Diamonds,
World's Largest Rough Diamonds, Diamond Facts
Gem labs and the science, art and marketing of diamonds
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